So here we are at last.
The final installment of building a raygun. I hope you’ve followed along, since by the shrieks coming from the Minister Lyn’s area you will probably need them sooner rather than later.
Last installment I talked about cycling LED lights that I picked up at JoAnn Fabrics. I posted an image, but it was a poor substitute for the actual versions of what I bought. After a bit of searching, I found the original packaging.
The round ones, I used whole in the power pack area. Every time you turn one of these on, it lights differently. It can light solid blue, green, or red, a a combination of two colors, or cycling between all three. For my purposes, I like the cycling version since it draws the eye. If you are being pursued by the Shetland-benobos though, you may want to set it to just one color.
The flat ones, I took apart. For this you’ll need a small flat head screwdriver or a very very small pry-bar. Make sure to save the enclosure and battery, since we’ll use those later. The LEDs from these are used in the back of the pistol, and you could use them in the slot at the top of the pistol if you wanted to. I actually ended up using a large bright blue LED, since my gun was flashing enough already.
At this point, you will want to paint the two halves of your pistol body. After this, you’ll have gewgaws and clear pieces of plexi that you don’t want painted. So primer the two halves with black. Wait. Then when it’s dry, paint over with the steampunk or dieselpunk color of your choice. I preferred a beaten brass look for my pistol.
Now, go ahead and take apart two of the flat BrightSPOT LED lights. Why two? Glad you asked. I lied to you earlier when I said I only needed on set of twisted pair wires going to the gun. I actually used both. One set is used for the light on the back of the gun, and the other for the LED to light up the plexiglass slot. Also, you’ll need the coin cell batteries that are in the two light enclosures.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any images of the wiring or inside of the raygun. Things were moving along so quickly that I forgot to take pictures of the build. So let me point out the bigger points of the build using the finished pictures.
First, the blue power stripe. This was achieved by removing the slide from the original Nerf Maverick. Where the rod that pulls back the spring would normally go there is a slot. I cut a piece of plexiglass down to size, and sanded the edges so that the light would diffract and scatter nicely. I also drilled a hole into the plexi so that the LED would fit inside it. I also sanded down the LED sides so that the light would spread through the plexi sheet.
Eventually, you will want to glue the sheet in place, but don’t do it until you are ready to put the pistol back together again. This is the time to wire it up and test your connections though. I would suggest soldering the wires for stability, though I didn’t in the interest of time. I used the Loctite glue on things here, since it doesn’t frost the plexi when it dries like superglue would.
In the image, you can see a green light at the back of the pistol. This is the rainbow LED from the brightSPOT, inserted into the jewelry piece I had purchased. Also in that piece is a slip of tracing paper to diffuse the light and make it look as if the light was filling the tube.
If you notice, there are wires that extend from the ends of the lighted tube and onto a brass knob. There is an identical setup on the other side. These are actually what carries current to the LED. Since it’s just battery power, no worries about getting electrocuted. I did this intentionally in case I wanted to attach more lights or other powered devices to the outside of the pistol.
In the shot of the back, you also have a good view of how the connector for the tubing goes into the back of the pistol. When you hold it, the tubing loops over the back of your hand and then snakes around your arm and into the powerpack at your belt. It’s quite a menacing look, I recommend going with it, even though it does add a bit of bulk. You could after all, make the pistol smaller by enclosing the batteries in the body of the pistol, but you won’t. Why? *zap! sizzle! fwoosh!* Because, this is steampunk, not Flash Gordon!
You probably want to see the power pack in action as well. Very well. Here is a shot of it. No video, so you only see the one color. Trust me when I say that the cycling colors make it look even better. You can see wire shadows in it currently, since I didn’t tuck them away for this shot. Normally, you’ll only see the color diffused throughout the whole cylinder.
So, you’ve got your electrical wired up, and tested. You did test it, right?
Oh dear, and those Shetland-benobos are sounding even louder. Ok, take it apart and test it again. Make sure all of your connections are solid. You don’t want your pistol flickering, or worse, not working when you need it, do you?
Screw the pistol together, and test the wiring again. It’s so easy for things to come loose at this stage. Once you know that your wires are good and stable, it’s time to break out the epoxy.
This part, you’ll want to have some extra bits of cardboard, paper, and other things that can be used to support the pistol. The stuff is pretty potent, so do this outdoors or in a well ventilated area where you can leave the pistol to dry. Ideally, I would have liked to construct an insert that would have fit with the Maveric and would socket to the ball of the plasma ball. I didn’t have time to sculpt and mold it though. So my version, if you look close enough, can be considered a bit messy. If you are that close though, chances are the barrel is up your nose and you aren’t long for this world. So it’s kind of a moot point.
Once the epoxy is dry, you can continue on to adding any other gewgaws or bits to your pistol. It’s nearly complete! A quick ink wash would make things look even nicer if you have the time and patience.
For the holsters, I ended up buying drill holsters from the local hardware store. They are made to fit extra wide things, so they fit perfectly. I don’t quite like the initials, or the more modern fabric, but you do what you can when on a budget.
I also got a plain, wide, leather utility belt to hold the two holsters and strapped the power packs onto it. Overall, it makes a nice rig. You really only need one pistol, since they pack quite the punch, but if you have the means, making two takes only a little bit longer for each step if you make them in tandem.
If anyone would like to donate to the Lair, and acquire one or both of these pistols, feel free to contact us. If there is interest, I would be willing to make more on commission, for the right price.

